Hot List: What to Do, Where to Go, and Who to Know in Shandaken NY

There’s no doubt that the small towns along the winding roads of The Catskills have evolved, and continue to do so, in terms of dining, arts and culture, retail, and accessibility. What remains the same is the allure that has drawn visitors to this area of the state for generations: a slower pace and an appreciation of the sights and sounds of pristine wilderness. While the natural splendor remains, these sleepy Main Streets have become more animated, dotted with extraordinary restaurants, unique boutiques, and stylish lodging.

Shandaken is one of those Catskills towns that feels like several destinations rolled into one. Wander the lively streets of Phoenicia, spend a day skiing or hiking around Pine Hill and Highmount, explore the forests and trails of Big Indian and Oliverea, follow the fly fishing streams near Mount Tremper and Chichester, or meditate on the quieter charm of Woodland Valley. Each hamlet has its own personality, but together they offer the perfect mix of mountain adventure, local culture, great food, and laid-back Catskills vibes year-round.

One Catskills mainstay that’s evolved along with the region is the acclaimed Peekamoose Restaurant & Taproom. While some newer eateries aim to capture the vibe of the Catskills, Peekamoose embodies it, from menu to atmosphere to the welcoming nature of its hosts. It’s unpretentious yet refined farm-to-table dining, co-owned by Devin Mills, a Culinary Institute of America grad and Marybeth Mills, a hospitality expert (Gramercy Tavern, Le Bernadin, etc.), who brought their NYC prowess way upstate to Big Indian to combine the best of both worlds.

 

While the menu adjusts with the farms it sources from, the current menu includes dinner entrees such as a vegetable curry over jasmine rice with vegetables from Black Horse Farms, a wood-grilled sirloin with creamed kale, and a variety of roasted fish and poultry. Their tavern also offers a variety of locally made craft beers on tap, including brews from West Kill Brewing, Catskill Brewing, and other favorites; a small list of creative cocktails, some made with locally crafted spirits; and a short wine list of options from around the world. 

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While you’re in the area, explore! If you plan to venture out for either a happy hour brew or an afternoon bev, Woodstock Brewing Company is a short drive away. This sleek, roadside brewery and taphouse is just as known for its eclectic variety of brews as it is for having ideal sunny picnic tables from which to enjoy them. 

If you’re looking for some laid-back nightlight, you can’t beat The Pines, the kind of spot where musicians go to hear music. It’s a small joint with a big heart: quality food, top-notch people, and when there’s a live act booked on either their small platform stage or their tree-lined lawn (bring a picnic blanket), you’re in for a treat.

Daytime travelers to this area love to visit Phoenicia’s walkable Main Street. Start with brunch at Bettina or coffee and pastry at Maeve’s before popping into some shops. The longstanding Mystery Spot Antiques has one of the most eclectic assortments of curiosities and hidden gems. If you prefer some funky, Catskills-contemporary finds, you’ll love Tender Land Home’s vibrant variety of accessories for the home (pottery, soaps, pillows, and the like) and for yourself (scarves, totes, other necessities). Art lovers should visit Varga Gallery. No visit to Phoenicia is complete without a stop at Nest Egg, a general store that transports you to a simpler time, offering sweets, local honey and syrup, toys and knick-knacks, but also Catskill hiking maps and books about the area.

For some, these Main Street strolls are plenty of walking. But for those who crave a challenging hike, bring your gear, grab a map, ask a local about any tips (most are happy to share), and hit the trails. Giant Ledge is a popular spot, but it’s worth the crowds to take in the views. The Mount Tremper fire tower is a rewarding finish to a more strenuous hike up Mount Tremper, just around the corner from Phoenicia. Before attempting any hike, be sure to have the right footwear and gear, check local weather and trail conditions, and don’t be ashamed to turn back if the going gets tough.

This is just a short activity guide among the many, many wonderful options in the Catskills; to name them all would turn this into a book.  Insider tip: One thing to keep in mind: the area tends to be weekender-friendly, and while some businesses offer extended summer hours, if you’re traveling mid-week, drop a line to double-check your destination’s hours. 

Featured Photo Courtesy of Peekamoose Restaurant & Taproom

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